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Ten Things You Should Know About Oran
Described as the commercial, industrial, and educational centre of western Algeria, Oran is Algeria’s second largest city and is home to a major port, a military zone and three universities. As a result, the city is lively and full of atmosphere, although rather neglected since the end of the Algerian War. Once the home of fashion icon Yves Saint Laurent, Oran is close to Europe in many respects, and its heritage can be seen among the ruined architecture in a beautiful but crumbling city.
Getting there and away
The city is serviced by Oran Es Sénia Airport, which offers flights with many international carriers, including Air Algérie, Iberia Air, Tunisair and Air Royal Maroc. It is located roughly nine kilometres from the city itself. It is then best to take a taxi into town. Oran can also be reached by ferries from Europe; from the ports of Marseilles, Sète, Alicante and Almería, via the national company Algérie Ferries. Oran is also the Western terminus of the Algerian rail network and trains from the capital Algiers run regularly.
Getting around
Once in the city, taxis and buses can be used to get around, although the system can be quite confusing and informal. Often, taxis must be flagged down, even if occupied, and they will take you if going in the same direction. The bus system is as confusing, with varying frequency and arrival times. However, there is also a newly-built tram system with 32 stops. Once in the city centre, it is an easy and pleasant walk with plenty of stunning architecture to admire.
Where to stay
Often described as the best hotel in Oran, the Royal Hotel Oran is conveniently located in the city centre. It is beautifully decorated with a rich character and history, and service is excellent. Attached to a convention centre, Le Meridien Oran Hotel monolithic structure dominates the skyline and offers some great views. This large and modern hotel has all the amenities you’d expect from a chain, but be prepared to pay more than the average for restaurant costs. Hotel le Raja is less imposing but better suited to a more modest budget.
Eating out
Like many seaside cities that take inspiration from Europe, Oran has a vibrant seafront promenade lined with restaurants and bars and, as one can expect, seafood forms a major part of the Oran dining experience. Restaurant les Gazelles has a view to die for and excellent seafood – the catch of the day is extremely fresh – but can stretch the budget a bit. La Calypso has delicious pizza and attractive street setting, while It Side, despite its achingly hip name, is an affordable Turkish restaurant with friendly and efficient staff. It also serves the best steak in town. Finally, for simple but yummy cuisine and achingly gorgeous views, try Le Petit Chalet.
Nightlife
Like any port and university town, Oran’s nightlife is thriving and is indeed Algeria’s party capital. In fact, the city is famous for it. The Corniche, Oran’s seafront boulevard, is the must-go place for those seeking after-dark excitements. If you’re looking to dance, you have plenty of options. After all, this is the city that established the popular North African music genre rai. For a chic, upmarket venue, try the Atmosphère at the Sheraton Hotel, which now attracts international DJs. Les Pins d’Or, SunHouse and Le Murdjadjo are other options. There are also plenty of bars and cabarets. However, it is advisable to go with locals if possible.
In the city
Oran is surrounded by a military zone, but don’t let that put you off. There are many fascinating things to see in the city. There is an air of neglect among the crumbling French-built architecture but it is still full of beauty. Nowhere exemplifies this more than the Cathédrale de St Louis. From afar, the building, which sits atop a hill, looks impressive but is actually closed up and derelict. It is surrounded by crumbling architecture hearkening back to another time. Bey’s Palace has suffered the same fate but is still a curiosity. Pasha’s Mosque is a somewhat better kept sight-seeing option. For a little history, try the Musée National Ahmed Zabana.
Shopping
Oran is a great place for shopping, offering everything from mall trawling, specialist boutiques, markets and bazaars. Les Arcades is a shopping zone housing food, clothing and souvenir stores, while Mdin Jdidait is a large market where the locals do their shopping. Like in Algiers, there is a Kasbah in Oran, but it is less friendly and it is not advised to go at night but if you do venture in, there are interesting little street markets hidden within. And then of course, the Corniche, or Front de Mer, inspired by Nice’s seafront, is a perfect place for an amble.
Out of the city
It is not advisable to travel too far out of the city (see Health and Safety) but there are plenty of attractions nearby. The Murdjajo hill is quite a climb but is worth it for the views overlooking the city. As if that wasn’t enough, your real reward for the climb is the beautiful Santa Cruz church, built by the Spanish in the 16th century and, above it, the Santa Cruz Fortress, built by the Marquis de Santa Cruz in 1563. For those in the know, there is also a bar in the fortress. The beach, while obviously very popular, is great fun and there are plenty of small reefs to explore. About an hour’s drive from Oran, you’ll also find Madagh, a natural beach with warm, clear water.
History and culture
Established by Moors in the year 903 and since has changed hands many times. It has been variously owned by the Spanish, the Turks, the French and the Vichy Government during World War II. Today, Oran has the sad and ravaged air of a country that has seen great tragedy and indeed its recent history is also brutal. Before the Algerian War, which lasted from 1954 to 1962, Oran had a large European population but in the violence of 1962, a number of Europeans disappeared and many others fled.
Health and safety
Algeria is a restive country with frequent, though mostly peaceful, demonstrations taking place. It is from beyond the borders that threats emanate, with warning being issued for travel near the borders of Mauretania, Mali, Niger, Libya and Tunisia. In addition, there is an increasing threat of terrorism, but it is generally safe in Algiers and other main cities like Oran. If business does take you there, avoid rural areas and travelling at night, and follow usual, sensible safety precautions during the day.
Gwanda: Another unseen destination
I’m very fortunate that my work in Zimbabwe fits hand in hand with my lifestyle. I love travelling, sleeping under the stars, camping and the outdoors. My job takes me to unseen destinations and beautiful remote locations. Last weekend I camped in a Bird and Wildlife Sanctuary located in Gwanda, a beautiful part of Zimbabwe. I woke up to an amazing sunrise and a huge waterbuck with monster sized horns, just a few meters from our tents. This past weekend was another unseen destination.
Ready to Experience the Wild Side of Africa
Experience the wild side of Africa and let the Mara mystify with her untamed beauty. Kate Webster takes you into the wild, from dawn to dusk in one of Africa’s most iconic playgrounds.
As dawn breaks, there was a stirring happening. The air was cool, but charged with an electricity that cuts through the static and leaves you feeling on edge. The smell of the bush danced on the air, a sweet mix of florals, rustic earthy scents and petrichor from the morning dew.
The sun’s golden glow blanketed the plains, its warmth still developing with each minute that passed. The sound of morning birds filled the air in a symphony of calls. There was movement on the horizon. It was my first visit to the Maasai Mara in Kenya. Affectionally known as the Mara, it is a large game reserve in Narok County, which continues to the Serengeti National Park in Mara Region, Tanzania.
The Maasai Mara was named in honour of the ancestral inhabitants of the area, the Maasai people. They described the area when looked at from afar, “Mara”, which is Maa (Maasai language) for “spotted,” an apt description for the circles of trees, scrub, savanna, and cloud shadows that mark the area. Covering some 1,510 km2, the Maasai Mara stretches for as far as the eye can see.
Even then, it is only a fraction of the Greater Mara ecosystem, which covers some 25,000 km2 and includes the following Group Ranches: Koiyaki, Lemek, Ol Chorro Oirowua, Olkinyei, Siana, Maji Moto, Naikara, Ol Derkesi, Kerinkani, Oloirien, and Kimintet.
If I were a vulture circling and looking across the land, I would see the Serengeti Park to the south, the Siria escarpment to the west, and Maasai pastoral ranches to the north, east and west. I would see the Sand, Talek River and Mara River all sustaining the reserve with fringing shrubs and trees.
Access
The day earlier, I boarded a small Air Kenya DeHavilland Twin Otter 300 plane at Wilson Airport in Kenya’s capital of Nairobi and flew east for about two hours to land at Olkiombo Airstrip. Due to the size of the plane, luggage allowance was limited to a soft bag weighing no more than 15kg. The flight was where the excitement started, cruising over the countryside speckled with townships and farms and expanses of terrain that was just empty. Not for the uneasy flyer, the flight took a few pitstops along the way, each time landing on a dirt runway, which seemed in the middle of nowhere.
Camp
With the dying light, it was straight from Olkiombo Airstrip to my accommodation, Mara Expedition Camp. Mara Expedition Camp sits on a small bend in the Ntiakitiak River, where a thick riverine forest meets the unending savannah in the north-central section of the Maasai Mara.
A small camp with just five tents accommodating up to ten guests, the intimacy of this camp is a main drawcard. There was a real feel of authenticity here with an air of yesteryear in the design, which draws stylistic reference from the old, authentic expedition camps of the colonial era
Constructed in the spirit of mobility and non-permanence out of deference to the wilderness, which surrounds it, the camp is tented safari style. However, these tents are far from those you buy at your local camping store. The tastefully appointed tents take glamping off the scale, and you hardly feel like it is a tented camp. Set at ground level and shaded by the forest canopy, the tents forego fancy amenities, but still leave you wanting for nothing.
The oversized bed sat centre of the main room and gave a view out to the bush. A separate bathroom included an antique camp shower that pulls from a brass bucket, adding to the overall experience. The tent was decorated with an eclectic yet co-ordinated assembly of what early explorers may have carried with them – brass chandeliers, old Indian campaign chests, rich leather and hardwood furniture – combined with rich textiles and soft cottons
Into the wild
Waking before the sun, I was ready to embark on my first game drive of my stay. It was late October and still relatively cold in the mornings. Armed with an artillery of cameras and lenses, freshly brewed coffee and a traditional Maasai shuka cloth that is affectionately known as the “African blanket” to keep me warm.
There was just myself and JP, the game ranger, in the open-air vehicle as we bounced off into the breaking dawn.
It didn’t take me long to grasp that this is a place of learning, where Africa teaches lessons that will change the way you view the world in one of the most incredible classrooms on the planet – the incomparable Maasai Mara. A place where lions and other big cats own the night; a place where hippos stake claim to vast territories; a place where we submit to the supreme power of wild Africa and take our lead from Mother Nature.
The golden glow of the sky faded as the sun rose higher in the sky and the slight stirring of wildlife during the breaking dawn became more active. There seemed to be a sense of urgency to start the day. Just a few kilometres out from the camp and that supreme power of the wild was upon me.
Giraffes walked gracefully across the plains, curiously stopping every so often to glance around and survey the area. Grand majestic elephants paraded slowly past, the younger elephants trailing playfully behind. Wild dogs called in the distance, an excited chatter like that of children running off to play.
Herds of wildebeest congregated as if attending a morning board meeting. Mixed with them were dazzles of zebra and I am told these are the stragglers that did not venture on the great migration. Described as the greatest show on Earth, the Great Migration is an overwhelming, humbling and quite simply amazing wildlife experience.
Every year, millions of wildebeest, zebras and gazelles combined gather on the vast plains of the Serengeti in Tanzania to begin their race towards greener grazing lands. Following the rains, they head north towards the Maasai Mara before about-turning and dashing south again. It’s a sprint for survival, covering a total of over 1,800 miles, and the journey is incredibly tough, where only the strong survive
Survival is a battle that is played out daily in the Mara, and from the serene start to my morning, I was about to be quickly awoken by such a battle. A lioness crouched in the long grass, her body twitched in anticipation. Although her stare was fixed on the target, she was aware of everything that was going on around her. The gazelle unfortunately was not, otherwise it would have realised what immediate danger it was in and the fate that lay ahead. It had been only minutes that I had been watching the lioness’s stealth, but it felt like hours, and the anticipation numbed my body. I had to remind myself to breathe.
A lighting burst from the lioness began the hunt as she erupted from the silence of her camouflage, the attack was on. The gazelle realised all too late. In the distance I saw a flurry of movement in the scrub and grass, the impala’s hind leg jutted into the air and the tumble of these two animals in this wrestle for life stirred up dust and debris that floated gently in the air above the chaos that unravelled below.
As we drove closer to the kill, an overwhelming sense of emotions engulfed me. The initial scene of tragedy turned to one of hope as the lioness was soon joined by her small family, with more of the pride arriving to feast on the meal. It then becomes clear to me the meaning behind ‘the circle of life’, the loss of one animal’s life in order for another animal to live.
This circle is the essence of Africa. It’s what keeps the continent’s heart beating; it’s what keeps it alive. A beat that is rooted deep in the soil that supplies life to the age-old Baobab trees; a beat that echoes beyond the vast plains that feed such amazing and unique animals; a beat that lives on in the souls of those who live there and a beat that will always remain in my heart after my first visit to the Maasai Mara.
As my day came to an end, I revelled in the most memorable African sunset. The yellow-orange-red and violet hues of sunset was intense, yet offered a calming warmth. Like a great big romantic fire in the sky, the sun dipped behind the horizon as if an orchestral symphony was quieting down. The sun’s rays waved goodbye like an old friend, but you know you will see them again.

